Travel to Hawaii
(Big Island, Hawaii)

Kona
This spread-out district stretches from South Kona, the location of Honaunau Bay, to the vast Kona State Park. The inland area resembles a run-of-the-mill mainland suburban community. The Kona Airport is located a few miles north of Kailua-Kona on Highway 19. The most heavily populated area is Kailua-Kona. It's the site of the Kailua Pier, the main tourist shopping drag. Just below Kailua-Kona is Keahou-Kona. Most of the area hotels range down the coast, from Kailua to Keahou.

Central Kailua-Kona has a half-dozen attractions, including Ahu'ena Heiau and Hulihe'e Palace. Along the coastline are Laaloa Beach Park, known for its "magic sands," and the Kona Historical Society Museum. The southern town of Captain Cook is considered a part of greater Kona. Many people make the trip down the coast to snorkel at the marine preserve or view the sea captain's monument.

Kohala Coast/Kohala
The name translates to "Gold Coast." At first, it's hard to understand why this place deserves its name; the terrain is harsh, barren and almost spooky. That is, until one reaches the resort districts.

The first resort area is Ka'upulehu, home of the Four Seasons and the legendary Kona Village Resort. You must have a room reservation--or at the very least, a lunch reservation--to get inside the gates. Further up the road is Waikoloa. This resort isn't as picky; it'll let anyone inside. Plenty of visitors to other districts opt to spend a full day exploring Waikoloa.

Further along you'll find Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea. Each resort district has a few four-star hotels, a few luxury condominium complexes, and a dozen gourmet restaurants. Stop by the secluded beach park on the Mauna Lani property where the fabulous Puako Petroglyphs are located. Hapuna Beach Park sits in splendid isolation on the North Kohala Coast.

If there is one thing that brings people from around the world to the Kohala Coast it's the golf. Most area courses rank among the top 100 in the United States. Hapuna Golf Course, Francis Brown I & II, and the Waikoloa Village Golf Courses are all world-renowned.

After Mauna Kea things change. Beach parks dot the coastline and little settlements crop up alongside the highway. The pace of life slows down to correspond with the speed limit. North Kohala is ranch land and coffee country. Buy coffee at Kohala Coffee Mill in downtown Hawi, enjoy a horseback excursion, or leisurely dine at one of the area cafes or restaurants.

Upcountry
Inland from Waikoloa is the town of Waimea. It's small and out-of-the-way, but it has an abundance of personality. Businesses here are usually family-owned, and many of them feature island-made products.

The land surrounding Waimea is either part of the Parker Ranch (the largest ranch in the state), or part of the Waipio Valley, which can only be toured on horseback or by covered wagon. Parker Ranch runs many attractions, though it is always good to check if they are in the middle of construction and renovations before signing up. Hamakua Coast, the northeastern coastline of Hawaii, is often classified among the most scenic drives in the world.

Hilo
Below the Hamakua Coast, in a fertile little pocket that gets more rain than just about any other place in the world, is Hilo. This is a booming town by Hawaiian standards. Of course, the town also knows how it appears to mainland visitors: cute, quaint, and stuck in a time warp. It plays up that image, offering historic tours and a daily fish market.

Downtown Hilo is located on the waterfront. Sightseers can start at either Banyan Drive or the Tsunami Museum. There's also the East Hawaii Cultural Center and Lyman Museum.

Volcano
South of Hilo on Highway 11 is the most famous spot in the islands. Officially titled Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, it is informally known as "The Volcano" or "Kilauea." Kilauea is, in fact, only a part of the massive park, but it's the part that everyone comes to see. Belching smoke and spewing flame, this is the most active volcano in the world. The Kilauea Visitor Center, Volcano Art Center, and Jaggar Museum are all located here.

South and Central Regions
Between Volcano on the east side and Kona on the west, the island is a vast expanse of untouched volcanic overflow. The majority of it is part of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Above this is Mauna Kea State Recreation Area, the best star-gazing spot in the world and a designated astronomy center. The road to Mauna Kea cannot be navigated in a rental car.

The southern tip of the island, which is also the southernmost point in the U.S., has barely been touched by civilization. There are a few hotels and a few B&Bs. Travelers to the south shore usually visit the semi-famous Punalu'u Bakeshop & Visitor Center for lunch.

The Big Island really lives up to its nickname. You can drive for hours and see nothing at all. Then, suddenly, you'll stumble on a patch of land so developed that it resembles a strip mall in suburban Nevada. The Kona Coast is a desert. Hilo is a rainforest. There are palm trees growing out of lava rock on the Kohala Coast. There is skiing on Mauna Kea. Tens of thousands of feet below the snow-capped peak, sea turtles and dolphins play in an ocean as warm as bathwater.

The early Hawaiians...
By the time Westerners discovered Hawai`i (in the late 18th century), Polynesians from the Marquesas, Tahiti, and the Cook Islands had lived on the islands for more than 1,200 years. These island people had traveled over 3,500 miles by sea, bringing with them the plant life and animals necessary for their survival. They had established a way of life based on agriculture and a government based around ali'i (chiefs) and kahuna (priests). The system of kapu (rule) dictated the laws of society. The Hawaiian people were, for the most part, peaceful. Because there were only a limited number of able-bodied warriors, a fighting lifestyle was not practical. Pre-contact life on the Big Island was quite prosperous. As one of the primary taro producers in the island chain, Big Island residents managed to maintain a relatively high standard of living through inter-island trade.

The ancient Hawaiians were a highly religious people; many gods and goddesses affected their behavior in everyday life. On the Big Island, the most powerful of these was the Volcano Goddess, Pele. Big Islanders believed that Pele's wrath showed itself in the form of the molten lava that frequently ran down the mountainside and (less frequently) destroyed villages and killed their inhabitants.

Captain Cook's Arrival
January 17, 1779 was the date of Captain James Cook's arrival into Kealakekua Bay. Coincidentally, the British ships sailed into the bay during a celebration known as Makahiki. More than 10,000 Hawaiians had flocked to the area to honor the god Lono. According to Hawaiian legend, Lono was a 'white god' accompanied by white banners--a remarkably similar description to that of Cook, who arrived by sea with his white flags flying. The Big Islanders greeted this British navigator as though he were, in fact, a god. He was treated with complete deference during the remaining two weeks of Makahiki: entertained, honored, and plied with gifts. In return, Cook presented the Hawaiians with gifts and with British-style entertainment (fireworks).

Apparently, the initial goodwill of this first encounter was not enough to maintain peaceable relations between the British and the Islanders. Cook sailed out of Kealakekua, only to turn back due to ship damage. At that point, Makahiki had ended and a kapu (rule) that forbade entrance to the bay was being enforced. In respect for this kapu, the Hawaiians confiscated the British shore boat. The British responded by attempting to kidnap the Hawaiian chief Kalaniopu'u. They planned to use the chief as hostage until their boat was returned. This attempt was Cook's fatal mistake: he was killed by a group of Hawaiians as soon as he reached the shore.

Hawaiian Sovereignty
After Cook's death in 1779, a young Big Island ali'i named Kamehameha was inspired to seize a British ship. With the cannon and guns on the ship, he was able to obtain control of the entire Hawaiian Island chain. Under Kamehameha's rule, Hawai`i became an organized sovereignty for the first time, and was recognized by the world as such. The king built his court on the Big Island and established a system of trade and taxation. As the islands were forced to become more and more involved with trade in the western world, it became increasingly difficult to preserve Hawaiian culture. Kamehameha managed to maintain the delicate balance until his death in 1819.

The island population had been fairly small to begin with, numbering about 300,000. After the arrival of the westerners, disease ran rampant on the islands, killing off all but about 50,000 people by the year 1880. As the population diminished, so did the strength of the Hawaiian nation.

Hawaii's Land
In the 1840s, an attempt was made by the British Consul to seize control of the Hawaiian Island chain. Although British government changed their position, thereby rendering the attempt unsuccessful, this event raised the issue of land ownership in the Islands. Foreigners decided that the time had come to claim their piece of paradise. Up until that time, the Hawaiians had measured land in terms of its resources. In order to qualify as an ahupua'a (the Hawaiian unit of measurement), the land had to contain timber, fresh water, farmland, and water for fishing. This concept was beyond European understanding, and they set about divvying up the land as they saw fit.

In 1845, an event later known as the Great Mahele occurred. This event surrendered all lands for redistribution: a third was to go to royalty, another third to the government, and the last third was to be divided amongst the people. By 1850, land ownership rights were given to any foreigner who cared to purchase them. The majority of the land held by the island people passed into the hands of the foreigners in the course of just a few decades.

Once the Hawaiians began to lose control of the land, it was a slippery slope downward to the total decline of their island culture. The last queen, Liliuokalani, was forced to relinquish power into the hands of the American businessmen who had won control of the sugar industry. Annexation followed shortly thereafter: on August 12, 1898, Hawai`i became a territory of the United States. On July 27, 1959, Hawai`i became the 50th of the United States, with the Big Island constituting one of its four counties.

The Big Island of Hawai`i Today
While much of the Big Island's culture was lost through the course of the past 200 years, recent times have seen a resurgence of interest in Hawaiiana. The dance, song, and legend of ancient Hawai'i have not yet been lost, although they no longer represent the beliefs of a nation. Perhaps more amazing than the perseverance of the Hawaiian people is the fact that, today, so many races live harmoniously in what was once a land of conflict.

See the Island...

...by air Helicopter touring is one of the most popular ways to see the Big Island and airplane tours are also available.

...by horseback Prefer to stay a little closer to the ground? Try a tour by horseback. Ride along the open range of the Kohala Mountains, through a tropical rainforest, or get a little firsthand paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) experience. Some stables are situated on private ranchland, while others conduct tours along the trails of Kealakekua Bay and Waipio Valley.

...by night For something entirely different, go to a star party. Constellations are the main event here, and you won't be distracted by any loud music. Held at the summit of Mauna Kea, stargazing events offer unparalleled views and a unique glimpse at Hawaii's natural history.

Get in the Water!
Notable surfing beaches on the Big Island include Kahalu'u Beach Park, Honoli'i Point, and Hilo Bayfront. Scuba schools abound. More involved than snorkeling (but less involved than scuba) is thy hybrid sport known as snuba.

Scuba, snorkel, and just plain recreational tours on the water are also available. These tours usually include food, drinks, and all necessary equipment. Less cozy, but far more up-close-and-personal, are the rafting, kayaking, and/or jet skiing tours available through various companies. For those who prefer to see the underwater world without getting wet, submarine tours are also available.

Golf
The Big Island offers some of the best golf conditions anywhere. It boasts 18 courses, ranging from championship oceanfront courses to isolated, upcountry courses. The courses of Kohala Coast, boast spectacular scenery, challenging play, and excellent facilities.

Fishing
Charter your own fishing boat or go on a fishing cruise, as the options abound. You'll find world-class marlin fishing, among other things. Many fishing boats dock at Honokohau Marina on the West Side of the island.

Delight Your Palate
Kona coffee is world-famous, and the farms that produce it are usually open to tourists. Also worth a visit is the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory, home of Hawaii's favorite nuts.

Less known than its coffee are the Big Island's microbreweries and tropical wineries. Located in Volcanoes National Park is the Volcano Winery, serving exotic wines such as Macadamia Nut Honey Wine and Lehua Blossom Honey Wine. The Mehana Brewing Company, found in Hilo, offers locally brewed ales and lagers. Kona Brewing Co. on the West Side is a popular daytime attraction and nighttime hangout spot.

Shopping
Visit Kings' Shops in Waikoloa for an upscale shopping experience. Kona Inn Shopping Village is a popular Kailua mall housed in a former hotel in Kailua-Kona. In the upcountry village of Holualoa, you'll find the highest concentration of galleries on the island. Other interesting upcountry shopping centers include Waimea Center and the Kawaihae Shopping Center. The downtown areas of Volcano Village and Hilo afford hours of browsing and shopping enjoyment.

Theaters
Hawaii may not be known as a nighttime hotspot, but it certainly has its share of entertainment venues. Take in a movie at one of several cinemas in Kona or on the Hilo side. If live performance is what you have in mind, the Akebono Theater in Pahoa is a safe bet.

Luau
Aside from their entertainment value (which is high,) luau also offer a taste of traditional Hawaiian cuisine. The flavors of Polynesia make these cultural events even more of an enticement.

However you choose to spend your days (and nights) on the Big Island--commando-hiking through the jungle, sunning by the hotel pool, visiting an active volcano, hanging out at a local bar--you're pretty much guaranteed an interesting time. All the necessary elements of a perfect vacation are within reach, so make your time in Hawaii exactly what you want it to be.